Reformulations: why a perfume “is no longer like it used to be”

A perfume can “no longer be like it used to be” for three reasons: it has been reformulated, meaning the maison has changed some of its ingredients; the natural raw materials have changed from one harvest to the next; or your bottle is from a different batch or has been stored improperly. Sometimes, however, it is our own noses that have changed.

Why perfumes are reformulated

• Ingredient regulations. Some raw materials are restricted to reduce the risk of allergies, so the maison must replace them.
• Raw materials. Some become rare or too expensive, while others can no longer be sourced with the same quality.
• The maison’s choices. Sometimes a perfume is “updated.”

Harvests and batches

Just like wine, rose, vetiver, and patchouli change from one year to the next. Maisons work to keep a perfume consistent, but small differences between batches are normal. The batch code on the bottle indicates which production run it belongs to: we discuss this in how to recognize an original perfume.

And our noses

When we wear the same perfume for years, our noses become accustomed to it and perceive it less. Before assuming it has been reformulated, try having someone else smell it, or stop wearing it for a few days.

What you can do

• Store the bottle properly, away from light and heat: see how to store perfumes.
• If you do not like the new version, look for a perfume similar to the one you loved: in boutiques, that is exactly where we start.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my perfume not last as long as it used to?

It could be a reformulation, a different batch, or your nose becoming accustomed to it. Try having someone else smell it: others often can still smell it.

How can I tell if a perfume has been reformulated?

It is not always stated. Comparing two bottles from different batches on your skin is the simplest way.