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The molecules that changed perfumery

Natali Profumeria · 1 min read · November 7, 2026

Many of the sensations we love in today's fragrances come from synthetic molecules: the velvety wood of Iso E Super, the transparent jasmine of Hedione, the saline amber of Ambroxan, the sea of Calone, the violet of ionone. They are not "fake": they are tools that allow perfumers to create scents that nature alone does not provide.

The molecules to know

  • Ionone: the violet molecule, discovered at the end of the 19th century. It is one of the first synthetic molecules in modern perfumery. See the violet note.
  • Hedione: a bright and transparent jasmine, which gives air and diffusion to a fragrance.
  • Calone: smells of the sea and watermelon; it is the base of many marine fragrances. See marine notes.
  • Iso E Super: a soft and velvety wood, which some people smell very strongly and others almost not at all.
  • Ambroxan: synthetic ambergris, saline and warm. See ambroxan.
  • Cashmeran: a warm, musky wood. See cashmeran.

Single-molecule fragrances

Escentric Molecules built Molecule 01 on Iso E Super alone. It is the best way to experience a "naked" molecule, and to understand why it smells different on everyone's skin. There is also Molecule 01 + Ginger, with ginger. All molecular fragrances are in the molecular collection.

Natural versus synthetic?

It is not a competition: great fragrances use both. We talk about it in natural or synthetic.

Frequently asked questions

Why can't some people smell Iso E Super?

Because some people are less sensitive to certain molecules: it is a difference in the nose, not the fragrance.

Is a fragrance with synthetic molecules of lower quality?

No. Synthetic molecules are used in almost all fragrances, even the most prestigious ones. Quality depends on how they are used.

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