How to read a cosmetic's INCI (without being a chemist)

The INCI is the list of ingredients in a cosmetic product, written using standardized names that are the same worldwide and listed in descending order of concentration. To read it, you only need to do three things: look at the first ingredients, which form the base of the product; look for the ones you are interested in; and check for any that your skin cannot tolerate.

How it is written

• In order of quantity. The first five or six ingredients make up most of the product. For ingredients present at less than 1%, the order may vary.
• With standardized names. Plants are listed by their Latin names (Butyrospermum Parkii is shea butter), and substances are listed by their chemical names (Sodium Hyaluronate is a form of hyaluronic acid).
• «Aqua» is water, which is often the first ingredient in creams.
• «Parfum» indicates fragrance; some scented substances that may cause allergies are listed separately by name.

What to look for

1. The active ingredients you are looking for: hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, retinol. Our ingredient guides, such as those on hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, explain what they do.
2. Where they are: an active ingredient featured prominently on the packaging but listed at the bottom of the INCI is present in a small quantity.
3. What to avoid: if you know you cannot tolerate a particular ingredient, search for it by name.

What not to fear

A chemical name does not mean «bad», and «natural» does not always mean «gentle». Many ingredients with difficult names are common and well tolerated. We discuss this, in the case of fragrances, in natural or synthetic.

An example

On Bakel product sheets, the number of active ingredients is stated, and each one is explained. It is a good way to learn: read the list and compare it with the INCI. We explain this in Bakel, product by product.

Frequently asked questions

What does INCI mean?

International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients: the international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients, which is the same worldwide.

Is the first ingredient the most important?

It is the most abundant, not necessarily the most important. Active ingredients often work even in small quantities.

How can I tell if a cream is right for my sensitive skin?

Look for simple formulas without the ingredients you cannot tolerate, and test the product on a small area before using it on your entire face.