Sunscreen: why to use it, how to choose it, and how to combine it with tanning accelerators

The sun is one of the greatest sources of well-being for the skin and mood, but it is also the primary cause of skin aging. A study by Flament and colleagues published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (conducted on 298 women in Montpellier, France) found that UV exposure is responsible for approximately 80% of visible signs of facial aging. The good news? With the right sunscreen, you can enjoy the sun safely, keep your skin young, and achieve a more beautiful, long-lasting tan. In this guide, with the expert advice that sets us apart, we will help you discover UVA and UVB rays, learn how to read a sunscreen label, and choose the perfect product for your skin type—with recommendations for the best sunscreens and tanning enhancers available on nataliprofumeria.it.

Why sunscreen is the most important skincare step

Applying sunscreen is not just a matter of appearance: it is the most effective anti-aging treatment and the first form of skin cancer prevention. UV rays induce the production of free radicals, unstable molecules that damage collagen and elastin, the two proteins that support the skin. Chronic unprotected exposure results in more dehydrated, less firm skin marked by dark spots, wrinkles, and loss of firmness.

There is more: intense exposure and repeated sunburns, especially at a young age, are a major risk factor for melanoma. The randomized Australian trial in Nambour (Green et al., Journal of Clinical Oncology, 2010), conducted on 1,621 Queensland residents, showed that daily use of SPF 15+ sunscreen halves the risk of melanoma: 11 new cases in the group that used it daily compared to 22 in the group that applied it at their discretion (hazard ratio 0.50). This is why sunscreen should be used all year round, not just at the beach: UVA rays penetrate clouds and even glass, reaching the skin in cities and on cloudy days.

UVA and UVB rays: the differences you need to know

The sun emits different types of radiation, but only a small part reaches the Earth's surface. According to the World Health Organization and the IARC, ultraviolet radiation reaching the ground is composed of approximately 95% UVA rays and approximately 5% UVB rays. These are the two main players in photoprotection.

UVB rays: energy on the surface

UVB rays have a shorter wavelength (280–315 nanometers) and primarily affect the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin. They are the most energetic and are mainly responsible for:

a long-lasting tan: they stimulate melanogenesis, i.e., the production of new melanin, which continues even after exposure;

erythema and sunburns: they are highly erythema-inducing;

vitamin D synthesis;

a key role in the development of skin cancers.

UVB rays are most intense during the middle of the day, in summer (from April to October), and at high altitudes, and can be partially blocked by clouds and glass.

UVA rays: silent damage deep down

UVA rays have a longer wavelength (315–400 nanometers) and penetrate deeper, into the dermis. They are present all year round, with almost constant intensity, and pass through clouds and glass. Their effects:

immediate but fleeting pigmentation (the so-called Meyrowsky effect), which fades in a few hours;

photoaging: wrinkles, loss of elasticity, dark spots;

photoimmunosuppression, phototoxicity, and photoallergies;

production of free radicals and cellular damage.

In summary: UVB rays "burn," while UVA rays "age." But both contribute to the risk of skin cancers, which is why a good sunscreen must provide broad-spectrum protection, meaning protection against both UVB and UVA rays.

How to read the label: SPF, UVA symbol, and water resistance

What SPF really is

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It indicates the product's ability to protect against UVB rays. Contrary to a widespread myth, it is not a time multiplier, but a measure of how much more UVB radiation is needed to redden protected skin compared to unprotected skin. According to the American Academy of Dermatology:

SPF 15 blocks approximately 93% of UVB rays;

SPF 30 blocks approximately 97%;

SPF 50 blocks approximately 98%.

As you can see, protection does not increase linearly: SPF 30 is not "twice" SPF 15. No product blocks 100% of UV rays: this is why the label cannot include claims such as "total protection." The European Commission Recommendation 2006/647/EC of September 22, 2006, on the efficacy of sun protection products, established four levels of protection: low (6–10), medium (15–20–25), high (30–50), and very high (50+).

The circled UVA symbol

SPF only measures UVB protection. To be sure about UVA protection, look for the circled UVA symbol on the packaging: according to Recommendation 2006/647/EC, it guarantees that UVA protection is at least one-third of the declared SPF (with a minimum critical wavelength of 370 nm). It is one of the few official guarantees found on sunscreens in Europe.

Water resistance

A "water resistant" sunscreen maintains its declared protection for a certain time in water (usually 40 minutes; "very water resistant" up to 80 minutes). Even the most resistant product must still be reapplied after swimming, sweating, or drying off with a towel.

Chemical filters and physical filters: what is the difference?

Sunscreens protect thanks to two major families of filters, which often coexist in the same formula to work synergistically:

Physical filters (or mineral/inorganic): ingredients such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide create a barrier on the skin's surface that reflects and scatters UV rays. They offer immediate protection, are generally well tolerated by sensitive skin and children, but in traditional formulations they can leave a slight white cast.

Chemical filters (or organic): they absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat, dispersing it. They allow for lighter, invisible, and more pleasant textures, ideal for daily use and under makeup.

Contrary to popular belief, the type of filter does not determine how "safe" or "effective" a sunscreen is: every product on the market must pass rigorous tests and comply with European Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009. The choice between physical and chemical is primarily a matter of personal preference, skin type, and lifestyle. An increasingly important topic is the environment: many new-generation sunscreens, like those you find with us, are formulated to be reef-friendly, meaning they do not contain filters (such as oxybenzone and octinoxate) that are harmful to coral reefs.

Skin type: the compass for choosing the right SPF

The Fitzpatrick classification, developed in 1975 by dermatologist Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, distinguishes six skin types based on skin, eye, and hair color, and reaction to the sun. Knowing yours is the first step in choosing the right protection:

Skin type I — milky skin, red or very blonde hair, light eyes, freckles. Always burns, does not tan. Always SPF 50+.

Skin type II — very fair skin, blonde hair, light eyes. Burns easily, tans little. SPF 50+, then SPF 30 on tanned skin.

Skin type III — medium-fair skin, light brown hair. Tans gradually. SPF 30–50, then SPF 20–15.

Skin type IV — olive skin, brown hair, dark eyes. Rarely burns. SPF 30 for initial exposures, then lower.

Skin type V — dark skin. Tans intensely and quickly. SPF 15–30.

Skin type VI — very dark skin. Almost never burns. SPF 15–30 to prevent photoaging and cellular damage.

One golden rule applies to everyone: even dark skin must be protected, because UVA rays act regardless of skin type and cause long-term damage. For initial exposures, always start with a higher SPF, eventually reducing it once the skin has already tanned.

Texture and format: the pleasure of applying protection

In niche cosmetics, texture is not a detail, but part of the experience. The right formula is one you will gladly and generously apply:

Creams and emulsions: ideal for the face and for those who love a rich, treatment-oriented step.

Fluids and milks: light, fast-absorbing, perfect for the body.

Sprays and mists: practical, even, excellent for reapplication and for those who exercise.

Sun oils: sensory and nourishing, for skin already accustomed to the sun.

Sticks: precise, perfect for sensitive areas such as the neck, scars, nose, and eye contour.

On the face, favor anti-aging formulas enriched with antioxidants; on the body, choose the format that makes you want to use it often.

The best sunscreens from Natali Profumeria

In our Sunscreen collection, we have selected brands that combine high protection, clean ingredients, and pleasure of use. Here are our recommendations.

For the face

Insium Skincare – Anti-Aging Face Sunscreen Emulsion SPF 50+: a comprehensive anti-aging treatment with reef-friendly filters and broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection, an ultralight, water-resistant, vegan texture, and without oxybenzone, octinoxate, silicones, or parabens. Protects against UV and infrared rays thanks to the extract of correggiola, with arginine and coconut oil for their elasticity-enhancing action. (Natali Profumeria)

Bakel – Face and Body Sunscreen Spray SPF 30 (€59.00): an anti-aging sunscreen spray with 26 clean active ingredients that protect against photoaging and deeply nourish.

Darling – Cloud Drop SPF 50 (€45.00): daily hydrating fluid SPF 50, invisible and fragrance-free, perfect under makeup. (DARLING)

Esthederm – Bronz Repair Anti-Wrinkle Sunscreen (€79.00): a sunscreen cream treatment that stimulates tanning, prevents photoaging, and corrects wrinkles thanks to the patented Global Cellular Protection technology.

For the body

Darling – Protect-Me SPF 50 (€42.00): broad-spectrum face and body sunscreen and moisturizer, with latest-generation reef-safe filters, jojoba oil, allantoin, and vitamin E, enveloped in a tropical fragrance of coconut, tiare, and monoi. Water resistant, vegan, and dermatologically tested. (DARLING)

Darling – Mist-Me SPF 50 (€38.00): invisible and refreshing sunscreen spray, ultralight, with new-generation filters. (DARLING)

Esthederm – Adaptasun: the line that stimulates and intensifies the tan while protecting against photoaging, available in Face Cream (€55.00), Body Milk (€62.00), Body Mist (€57.00), Protective Hydrating Sun Water (€55.00), and Sun Oil (€57.00), with versions also dedicated to sensitive skin.

For the most delicate and intolerant skin

Esthederm – Sun Intolerance Cream SPF 50 (€62.00) and Sun Intolerance Spray (€69.00): high protection reinforced with soothing actives, which gradually adapts reactive, intolerant skin, or skin undergoing photosensitizing treatments, to the sun (skin type I, sun-allergic skin).

Esthederm – NO SUN Maximum Protection Cream (€59.00): SPF 50 fluid for maximum defense.

Do not forget lips and hair

Lips do not produce melanin and lack natural defenses: protect them with Jane Iredale – Lip Drink Lip Balm SPF 15 (€28.00) or Coola – Lip Oil SPF 30 (€21.00). For your hair, Darling – Milky Hair Screen (€31.00) shields hair from the sun and salt water.

How to correctly apply sunscreen

Even the best sunscreen is useless if applied incorrectly. Follow these rules:

Quantity: approximately 2 mg per cm² of skin is needed. In practice: half a teaspoon for the face and neck, and an amount equal to a small glass (about 6 teaspoons) for the whole body. The American Academy of Dermatology notes that most people apply only 20–50% of the quantity needed to achieve the SPF indicated on the label.

Timing: spread it 15–30 minutes before exposure, so it has time to bind to the skin.

Reapplication: every 2 hours and always after swimming, sweating, or drying off.

Do not forget hidden areas: ears, the back of the neck, the backs of the feet and hands, the eye contour, and the décolleté.

Shade and times: avoid direct exposure during the middle of the day (11:00–16:00) and pair sunscreen with a hat, sunglasses, and protective clothing.

Tanning enhancers and accelerators: what they are and how they work

Those who love tanning know well the desire for a golden complexion that arrives quickly and lasts a long time. This is where tanning enhancers (or accelerators/activators) come into play.

How they work

Tanning is a defense mechanism: sunlight stimulates melanocytes to produce melanin, the pigment that darkens the skin. For this to happen, tyrosine is needed, an amino acid that is converted into melanin. Accelerators are formulated with tyrosine derivatives (which appear in the INCI as Acetyl Tyrosine or Potassium Caproyl Tyrosine) and with plant-based enhancers such as beta-carotene. Their job is to support and speed up the appearance of color, helping melanin rise to the surface, and often to nourish and hydrate the skin with antioxidants (vitamin E), fatty acids, and soothing actives.

It is important to be clear: tyrosine alone does not "create" a tan in place of the sun, but supports the process. The most noticeable results are seen on lighter skin types, which start with a lower ability to tan.

The golden rule: never without protection

Many tanning enhancers do not contain sunscreen filters and therefore do not protect against UVA and UVB rays. Otherwise, the risk is sunburns and erythema. They should therefore always be used in combination with a sunscreen suitable for your skin type. Since melanin is not produced until 3 days after the first exposure, a medium-to-high SPF is essential during the first days of vacation; only after that, on already "colored" skin, medium-dark skin types can switch to an accelerator with a lower SPF. Light skin types (skin types I and II) should start with an activator in the weeks before exposure and always maintain a high SPF: accelerators without filters are not suitable for very fair complexions.

Tanning enhancers from Natali Profumeria

Esthederm – Tanning Enhancer (Sun Sublimation) (€65.00): ultra-nourishing balm that accelerates tanning, intensifies and brightens the complexion, ideal for olive or already tanned skin. Without sunscreen protection: to be combined with a suitable sunscreen.

Esthederm – Bronz Impulse (€59.00): face and body spray without filters or screens that stimulates, intensifies, and prolongs the natural tan and prevents photoaging linked to UVA rays. Use it in the 14 days before exposure to prepare the skin and during exposure, always together with sunscreen.

Darling – Boost-Me (€37.00): silky face and body tanning activator lotion (Natali Profumeria) with Isochrysis Galbana extract, a sustainable microalga that accelerates melanin production by strengthening defenses against photoaging; with shea butter, aloe vera, and coconut oil.

Insium Skincare – IN/SUN Pre and After Sun (€58.00): 2-in-1 formula that before exposure activates melanin synthesis for a faster and more even tan, and after exposure soothes and hydrates the skin.

Esthederm – Tan Extender (€57.00): after-sun milk that nourishes the skin and prolongs the tan for a long time, leaving it luminous and velvety.

It is also worth noting that Insium IN/SUN protections (SPF 15, 30, and 50 sprays, reef-friendly and water-resistant) already include a complex of pro-melanin actives — with oleo-tyrosine, loofah oil (Natali Profumeria), and sea buckthorn extract rich in beta-carotene — that accelerates and intensifies the tan (Lotumboutique) while guaranteeing UVA/UVB protection: the ideal solution for those who want to protect themselves and tan in a single step.

After the sun: prolong the tan and repair

After-sun is not optional: it rehydrates, soothes, and prolongs the tan. After exposure, rely on Esthederm – After Sun SOS (€55.00) or the Repairing After Sun for the face (€59.00), Darling – Soothe-Me After Sun (€45.00), Insium – Immediate Relief After Sun Cream (€56.00), or Ligne St. Barth – Aloe Vera and Mint Gel (€74.00) for immediate and refreshing relief.

The advice of Natali Profumeria

Protecting yourself from the sun does not mean giving up tanning: it means achieving it in a healthy, even, and long-lasting way, preserving the youthfulness of the skin. The winning strategy is simple: identify your skin type, choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with the right SPF and a texture you love, apply it generously, and reapply often, and — if you want a more intense complexion — pair it with a tanning enhancer, without ever giving up protection. The rest, as always, is pleasure.

Discover the entire Sunscreen collection on nataliprofumeria.it and, if you have doubts about the product best suited for you, write to us: our expert advice is at your disposal, just like in the boutique.